Sunday, May 10

"Beyond the McIntosh"

Corby Kummer won a James Beard award for "Food Related Columns" for three articles that appeared in The Atlantic. His profile of John Bunker, a Maine pomologist, artist, and author of Not Far From the Tree, was among those cited.
His vocation arrived in a bushel basket, when he was managing a food cooperative in the town of Belfast. A man named Ira Proctor walked in one day to ask if the co-op would sell some of his apples on consignment. Bunker had never seen their like: apples the shape of a perfect McIntosh... but colored a lustrous dark cordovan, purple-black with firm, cream-colored flesh. The flavor was refreshing, smooth, and all appleā€”not cloying and mealy, as Macs can be, and not firm and juicy but as flavorful as cardboard, like Red Delicious.... The name was Black Oxford, Proctor told him, for the county where it grew: it originated in Paris, Maine, around 1790. Bunker took them all, and resolved to grow some for himself, via The Atlantic.
For a full list of Beard-approved reading material, here's a link to this year's nominees and winners.

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